Hello from NL 50; this is Bake Sense—a somewhat ordered record of ramblings concerning the world of baking. Along the way, you’ll find recipes and insights from life in and out of the professional bakery and plenty of fruitful chat.
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‘the fruit of the orange is delicious, but it cannot be satisfactorily spread.’
Tamar Adler - An Everlasting Meal.
The same can be said for lemons. Ask many a cook or chef about the essential ingredients they could not be without, and you’ll find the Lemon is atop many of the lists. Oftentimes, a meal, a dessert, a baked good, and a beverage can and should be seasoned with its juice or zest…think salad leaves, Earl Grey tea and crepes, and you’re merely skimming the surface.
I dare say its use in everyday vinaigrettes and cakes; its ubiquitous virtue as an essential ingredient has hoodwinked us into thinking a good microplane and efficient juicer are the means to extract the best of what it has to offer. At least, that was my feeling until I found the alchemy that can occur once lemons meet their end in a jam pan.
The original inspiration for this recipe comes via a recipe featured on Food52 by Emiko Davies. The straightforward whole fruit method, which is employed, was new to me; I was a slave to the squeeze and slice method when it came to Seville season and stuck hard and fast to the rules. I had yet to encounter the whole fruit marmalade method espoused by the more sane of mind.
This new to me technique offered as much ease and reward as making lemonade and yields jars of lemon marmalade that will convert all those that think marmalade is orange, overpoweringly bitter and not for them.
Taking Emiko’s suggestion on board, I started making a version with Vanilla and never looked back. Good quality, juicy, glossy beans bring out the floral notes in the lemons and offer a creamy quality that buffers the sharp, sour edges. I am not joking when I tell you a jar of this brought a grown man to tears, and many more preach that they never knew lemons could taste like this.
Aside from hot buttered toast, this marmaletta is incredible spooned over vanilla ice cream and makes a blissful ménage à trois when served with creme fraiche and a simple butter cake (of the Pound, Victoria or Madeleine species).
Marmaletta di Limoni
(adapted from Emiko Davies Lemon Marmalade)
Ingredients
1.5kg lemons (unwaxed)
3.75 litres water
3kg sugar
½ vanilla bean (I adore ndali Ugandan Vanilla)
Flaky sea salt to season* (optional)
Equipment
Small freezer-safe plate
Large, deep-sided pan
Colander set over a bowl
Wooden spoon or silicone spatula
Jelly bag/nut milk bag/muslin
Jars and lids
Method
Place the small plate in the freezer; you’ll return to this when testing for a set.
Wash the lemons and remove the nubby ends (I cut the barest amount off to keep as much lemon as possible).
Place them in a pan large enough to take the amount of water required; a wide, deep pan suitable for jam and marmalade making will improve your life and preserves no end but a sizeable enamel-lined cast iron pot such as a le cruset or similar works a charm.
Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer; allow to gently simmer until soft enough that they are easily pierced with the tip of a sharp knife.
Remove the lemons from the water and set them in a colander set over a bowl to drain; it's useful to catch any water that drains from the lemons so you can retain as much pectin-rich liquid as possible. Retain the water in the pan; do not throw this away.
Once the lemons are cool enough to handle, cut them in half and scrape out the pulp. Place all the pulp in the jelly bag/nut milk bag, and squeeze the bag of as much liquid as possible into the pan.*
You should have around 2.25 litres; make it up to this amount with water if you have less, or bring it to a boil and reduce it to this amount if you have more.
Slice the lemon peel into thin, medium or thick strips, depending on your preference.
Return these strips to the pan, add the sugar, the beans from the vanilla pod, and the pod itself.
Return the pan to a low heat and allow the sugar to dissolve. When completely dissolved, bring to a boil and boil rapidly to reach a set. In my experience, this varies but routinely takes approximately 20 minutes.
Test for a set by spooning a small amount onto the plate, leave for a few minutes to cool, gently push with your finger tip, and if the surface wrinkles, it is set.
Taste a small amount of the marmalade and, if desired, season at this point with a good quality finishing salt.
Jar the marmalade in sterilised jars, fill well and seal immediately. The marmalade should keep, unopened for 12 months.
*The pulp (minus the pips) can be added to the pan for a chunkier result; squeezing through the bag produces a clearer jelly marmalade with the shreds and vanilla beans suspended throughout.
*It's not necessary but an opportunity to balance and bring out flavour. Try infused salts here, vanilla/spice/herb salts, or smoked salts, depending on the fruit and any other flavours in the preserve.