Of late.
Cool as a cucumber salad.
I’ve found many excuses and reasons not to write here this past month. Most of them stem from a fear of not being able to write anything worth reading. But if I were to wait for a ‘good time’ or a break in my schedule to craft the perfect next post, then both you and I would be waiting a long time. Instead of feeling compelled to bring you something sensational, I’m just bringing you salad, with the promise of shortcakes somewhere down the line.
It’s been a week and a half at the bakery, one that’s pushed us out of our comfort zone only to find us completely at home after all. Salads and sandwiches have featured heavily, and one that has proved especially satiating is a simple semblance of crisp and crunchy cucumbers with capers, mint, and fennel fronds, tossed with lemony, black pepper croutons, olive oil, and flakes of sea salt.
It’s the sort of salad that serves a hot and bothered baker well, no matter when you catch a break from the heat of the ovens. Cool, refreshing, thirst-quenching, a sodium salve to get you through the next few hours.
The croutons must be hard-tack, almost to the point of severity. Rough, crude cubes, impossibly rock hard when first introduced, will give this salad life for the long days ahead of you. Their staying power is essential for sopping up every last drip of your more precious than ever olive oil, their rugged edges catching chiffonaded leaves and lactic curds of creamy cheese should you choose to add them.
I am not one to deseed cucumbers when making salad at home; this is either an approach you’re on board with or one you find totally abhorrent, but even I conceded that this particular occasion called for it and on reflection it’s a step I am glad I made the effort for. There’s no need to waste the fleshy pulp either; redirect it to glasses of iced sparkling water and serve the team around you as a tonic.
Cool as a Cucumber Salad.
As with sandwiches, salads should be composed and seasoned with your heart fully in them. Taste each raw element to assess its inherent appeal and dress accordingly, adding salt, fat, and acid until the salad tastes of itself in the best possible way.
The first British cucumbers arrived crisp and chunky, carrying a belly full of seeds but flavourful nonetheless. If you find yours lacklustre, consider adding a more overt pickled element, such as cornichons in place of capers. If they’re not quite as crunchy as you had hoped, add more big-ribbed romaine or baby gem leaves to make up for it.
Mint and lemon are non-negotiable but dill or parsley can pass in place of fennel. Feta, ricotta salata, mizithra or fresh and bouncy curds make this a more substantial meal. With such humble ingredients, this is the time to use your best olive oil, vinegar and finest sea salt.
Ingredients
Amounts of each are subjective; use these ballpark figures as a guide.
2 large cucumbers
5-6 large leaves of romaine lettuce or a head of baby gem
picked leaves from 6 sprigs of fresh mint
2 bushy stalks of fennel fronds
1.5-2 tbsp drained capers
1 tbsp apple cider vinegar
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
flaky sea salt
2-3 handfuls of croutons
zest and juice of 1 large lemon
black pepper
200g briny, salty, creamy cheese, cubed or crumbled into chunks
Cut the cumbers in half lengthways and scoop out the seeds. Slice the halves on the oblique into chunks 5-7mm wide. Roughly slice the leaves of romaine into 2 cm widths. If using little gem, then unfurl the inner hearts and leave the smallest whole, where they’ll act like cargo boats for the capers and curds.
Chiffonade the mint leaves and finely chop the fennel. Toss all the greens together and add the capers, vinegar, olive oil and sea salt. Mix well to mingle and acquaint.
In a separate bowl, toss the croutons with the lemon zest, lemon juice, black pepper, and a little more flaky salt. Seasoning the croutons separately before adding them to the greens makes them a worthy ingredient rather than a disparate element.
Toss the dressed croutons with the dressed leaves. Add the chunks of cheese if using, and give the whole thing one final toss.
This salad can be made at least an hour before eating and will keep well for 2-3 days in the fridge. The mint will discolour, but the flavours will only improve.
Ideas and recipes on my mind to make and share…
Shortcakes reimagined for the summer season, inspired by the one and only Claire Saffitz,
Chocolate, Date, & Olive Oil toasted sandwiches, the sweet flip side to the cheddar Padron pepper toasties we’ve been making this week.
Parmesan & Herb scones and a dairy-free olive oil and herb alternative for your next canapé soirée.
