Hello from NL 51; this is Bake Sense—a somewhat ordered record of ramblings concerning the world of baking; expect insights from life in and out of the professional bakery and plenty of fruitful chat.
You can subscribe to receive each edition directly to your inbox as soon as it’s published; you can expect this to be two newsletters each month and additional content as and when the mind is moved to create it. It’s a joy to have every one of you here.
As there’s been a flurry of new subscribers and followers in the last few weeks, I thought it apt to round up a few recipes from newsletters past. It’d be remiss of me not to nudge you in the direction of some of my favourite things to ponder upon right now…CITRUS…and to show you how to make the most of what’s good right now.
The spritely species that inject feeling into any dish, citrus, be it used as zest, juice, or whole, serves to wake up the eyes, nose and palate.
It’s a pulse, a vital sign that you’ve paid attention to the needs of the dish and the eater. More palate-puckering thoughts on the synesthesia of citrus can be found in Citrus Trip, a brief exploration of citrus varieties with ideas for their use in sweet and savoury applications. I am still working through the preserved Marrakesch Limes from last year and feeling oh so grateful for them.
This is also where you’ll find the recipe for the cake I find myself baking more frequently, a spectacle of colour and texture that belies its simplicity and, with some tinkering, can easily transcend citrus season to become the only olive oil cake you’ll ever need.
It's hard to believe that I have neglected the curd so far this season; all the lemons life has given me of late have been acidifying bubbling pans of forced rhubarb jam, which runs through the veins of anyone living in this particular part of God’s own country.
But for those of you looking to perfect your lemon, lime or blood orange curd, this sliding scale of citrus curds details their formulation, preparation and application. A recipe for Lime Butter Curd Tarts is also included for those subscribed to the Extra Credit portion of the newsletter.
And finally, a lesson in squeezing out every last bit from your citrus haul. Good citrus is expensive, and a peel-to-pip approach is as delicious as it is resourceful. Here, you’ll find some tips and tricks on how to make the most of the whole citrus, from vinegar to cocktails. It’ll also serve as a reminder that Hot Cross Bun season is just around the corner, and making your own candied peel will significantly improve the experience of making and eating said buns.
Citrus aside, here are a few more things I’ve enjoyed throughout February…
Beans that go beyond - we all know we should eat more of them, and Bold Bean Co. has made it practically impossible for me to eat anything but with their Queen Carlin Peas, a collaboration with my perennial favourite pulse pioneers Hodmedods. If you’ve never tried a Carlin Pea, be prepared to sideline the chickpea in favour of this toasty, chestnutty counterpart in all usual applications, especially hummus and paprika-spiked stews and soups.
Spanish Pistachios - arrived at the bakery this week, hailing from the same regenerative agroforestry project in Andalucia as our favourite almonds. Safe to say, my eyes are wide with the pistachio possibilities. Pralines, nougat and ice cream are sure to feature.
Pump Street Peruvian chocolate for le goûter. My favourite afternoon snack of late is a slice of sourdough warmed just enough to soften and then topped with squares of this otherworldly chocolate, full of blackberry notes that mimic the best jam.
Thank you for this! This month it feels like I am surrounded by bucket list citrus recipes. I was very tempted by the lemon marmalade story but I actually have an impulse-buy cerdo on my counter waiting for me to use it in something, so I might give that adaptation a shot!