Hello from newsletter no. 12. Thank you for taking the time to be here again this week, and if it’s your first time here, welcome!
If you’re the kind of soul that loves good commentary, ideas and inspiration concerning the world of baking, including its more esoteric bits and pieces, then you’re in the right place. Here we explore such things with a resourceful approach that aims to champion flavour and wholesome, seasonal ingredients.
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Happy Easter! I hope your bank holiday weekend has thus far been full of hot crosses and chocolate eggs, with many more to come. If you fancy making something sweet to mark the occasion, then let me direct you back a week to this recipe for Spiced Rye & Almond Linzers; if, on the other hand, you're in the mood for something savoury, then read on.
And for those looking for Hot Cross adjacent fun, I’m sharing one from the archives, a recipe for Hot Cross Bun Ice Cream. Find it in this week’s Extra Credit portion of the newsletter.
Spring has finally sprung, and with it, my appetite for all the bright and verdant greens; I had Torta Pasqualina, the traditional Italian Easter pie, on my mind. However, time and ingredient availability combined led me to scale back my ambition. I’ve documented the result below, which made a pie that did not compromise, save for the whole-cooked eggs, and some may argue that isn’t a bad thing.
The beauty of the pie’s filling is that you can use whichever mix of leafy greens you can get your hands on; spinach, kale, chard, wild garlic and sorrel are all excellent candidates, and I favour a combination for the most flavour and texture. Consider spinach, kale and young spring greens as the backbone, whilst Swiss chard, wild garlic and sorrel can add more distinct flavours. If you have access to turnip tops (Cime di rapa), you can and should use them, especially if you enjoy their rich brassica flavour. Likewise, if mustard greens or nettles abound where you are, make the most of their abundance and throw them in.
Half the quantity of beans required is pureed for a creamy filling that holds the pie together, and I recommend Bold Bean Co for this one. Their organic white beans are incomparable in their buttery texture and well seasoned, making light work of throwing a flavourful filling together in no time.
Look to your fridge or pantry for condiments, pickles and ferments; they are the supporting cast, adding depth and complexity, boosting flavour with little effort. For example, a tablespoon of capers, preserved lemon, sauerkraut, or mustard to the filling all work well.
I’ve called on my ever-versatile flaky pie pastry (detailed below, but also find a variation here) to top the pie (yes, that’s right, this pie has a pastry top but no pastry bottom) because there is always a round of it in the freezer for such occasions.
We won’t debate pie nomenclature here because I don’t think forgoing the base deters from the final pie, but I admit a tiny part of me regretted not double-crusting this one. If you have strong feelings on proper pie etiquette, I invite you to consider housing the filling in a pie base.
At this time of year, this kind of pie is perfect for lunch with a spritely side salad (again of diverse leaf texture, shape and flavour) with requisite acidity and piquancy to contrast the pie.
Ingredients
(Makes 1 x 8-inch pie)
For the filling
1 large leek, finely sliced
500g leafy greens, finely sliced, separate any thicker stems from tender tips
1/2 tsp caraway seeds
1/4 tsp sea salt
fresh ground black pepper
1/4 tsp chilli flakes
1 jar (660g) of Bold Bean White Beans
2 tbsp capers, drained from the brine or 1 tbsp preserved lemon finely chopped
40g fresh herbs, finely chopped (dill, parsley, wild garlic, sorrel)
1 lemon, finely grated zest and juice
2 tbsp tahini
60ml water
Half batch of flaky pie pastry (see recipe below)
Eggwash to glaze
Sesame seeds to top the pie (optional)
Method
Sauté the finely sliced leek in a tablespoon of oil, along with the caraway seeds, until soft and translucent—season with sea salt, pepper and chilli flakes.
Add the thicker stems of the leafy greens and sauté for 2-3 minutes before adding the rest, allowing them to wilt and soften. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
Add half of the white beans to the greens. Blitz the remaining half until smooth, then fold through the whole bean and sautéed greens mixture, followed by the remaining ingredients (capers or preserved lemon, fresh herbs, lemon zest, lemon juice, tahini and water).
Lightly butter the pie plate and fill it with the white bean and greens.
Roll out the pie pastry approximately 1 inch wider than the pie plate. Once the pie filling is cool, cover with the pasty, tuck the pastry overhang under and crimp to secure. Use any leftover pastry to decorate the top. Place the pie in the freezer until the pastry feels firm.
When you’re ready to bake the pie, pre-heat the oven to 200°C. Brush the top of the pie with egg wash; avoid the crimped edge, as this will brown sufficiently on its own. Sprinkle with sesame seeds (optional), and use a sharp knife to create a vent in the top to allow steam to escape.
Bake at 200°C for 10 minutes (this initial burst of high heat helps to set the crust), reduce the oven temperature to 180°C and continue to bake for 30-40 minutes until the pastry is golden. Cover the pie with foil if the pastry crust looks to be browning too quickly in parts.
Flaky Pie Pastry
Makes enough for two pie tops (freeze the other half for future pies).
340g wholemeal flour
1 tsp sea salt
1 tbsp sugar
226g butter, fridge cold
125ml cold water
30ml apple cider vinegar
Method
Grate the butter on the regular grating side of the box grater. Next, measure the cold water and apple cider vinegar into a jug.
Place the butter, water/vinegar mix into the freezer for at least 15 minutes to become ice cold. Weigh the flour into a mixing bowl, add the salt and sugar and mix evenly to distribute.
Remove the ice-cold butter from the freezer and tip it into the flour mix; using your fingers, begin to rub the butter into the flour; some parts will crumble, and some will remain as larger shreds of butter; the aim is to get the butter evenly distributed through the flour but with some flakes remaining.
Add 8 tbsp of the ice-cold water and vinegar mixture to the flour and butter; using a fork, mix to incorporate. Keep adding the liquid a tablespoon at a time until a rough dough begins to form.
It is unlikely that you will need to use all of the liquid (some wholemeal flours are far thirstier than others), and remember, wholemeal flours can take a little while to hydrate, so feel the mix, it does not want to be too sticky, nor does it want to be too dry.
Tip the dough onto the work surface to finish bringing the dough together by hand.
Divide into two and wrap each portion in cling film, flattening the dough to form a round disk approximately 15cm in diameter.
Place the wrapped dough in the fridge to chill for at least 30 minutes before using. The dough can also be frozen for up to 1 month.
To defrost, remove the dough from the freezer and place it in the fridge to defrost overnight. It is best not to leave the dough out to defrost at room temperature, as this can lead to the pastry becoming too soggy and difficult to work with.
Once the pastry is suitably chilled or if it has been frozen, once it has defrosted, it is then ready to use.