Hello from NL 45; this is Bake Sense—a somewhat ordered record of ramblings concerning the world of baking. Along the way, you’ll find recipes and insights from life in and out of the professional bakery and plenty of fruitful chat.
Through December, I’m sharing flour-forward recipes highlighting the ease and joy of using wholegrain flours in baking in the most simple and accessible way…biscuits!
Emblematic of Breton cuisine, the Palet Breton is just one of the many butter-laden delights of Brittany; others include Far Breton, Breton Cake and Kouign Amann. They are produced under the registered trademark Traou Mad in Pont Aven; Traou Mad means ‘Good Things’. And naturally, a region rich in the most heavenly ingredient known to bless a baker’s pantry will produce good things! But we’re not here to focus on the butter this time, but rather to celebrate another ingredient synonymous with the region…Buckwheat.
As a native of Britain and not Brittany, I have found the palate of my homeland lacks an appreciation for this savoury, earthy and complex cereal. It adds richness and depth to cakes, pastries and biscuits, where its assertiveness can be tempered by combining it with wholewheat flour.
Aside from flavour, Buckwheat has much to offer in terms of agronomy; it establishes itself quickly and is fast growing; as such, it is a valuable cover crop, especially in organic farming systems. Cover crops do just that; they cover the land and protect it from erosion, suppressing weeds and nourishing the soil. Cooler climates don’t deter Buckwheat, and its blossoms attract and provide nectar for insects and pollinators.
The addition of cacao nibs in this version of Palet Breton is a little artistic licence, not traditional, but they offer bittersweet accents that puncture the salty buttery biscuit. The quantities called for will make a small batch, so double or triple the amounts if you want to make enough to gift this Christmas. The characteristic puck shape is achieved by baking each biscuit in a buttered mini muffin tin, but if you don’t have one, then fear not; they will be just as delicious baked on a regular baking sheet.
Buckwheat Nib Palet Breton
Ingredients
100g soft wheat flour
55g buckwheat flour
1 + 1/4 tsp (5g) baking powder
1/2 + 1/8 tsp (3g) flaky sea salt
115g unsalted butter, room temp soft
100g caster sugar
20g egg yolk (approx 1 yolk)
15g cacao nibs
Method
Whisk together the dry ingredients.
Ensure the butter is soft enough; it should be creamy soft, not melty soft. Place the softened butter in the stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, add the sugar and the sea salt. Beat gently on a low setting until smooth; there is no need to cream or aerate the mixture.
Add the yolk and beat to incorporate.
Add the dry ingredients and beat again for 1 minute; add the cacao nibs and mix until it comes away clean from the sides of the bowl.
Turn the dough out onto the work surface and form it into a log with a diameter of approximately 1.5 cm, taking care to exclude any air pockets in the dough. Wrap well and chill in the fridge until firm enough to cut.
Prepare a mini muffin tin, grease the indents well with butter, and line them with a small circle of parchment to help prevent sticking.
Heat the oven to 160 degrees C.
Use a sharp knife to cut the log into 12 mm pieces and place in the greased mini muffin pan.
Bake for 10 minutes, then rotate the tray and bake for a further 5 -10 minutes or until the cookies are baked through and crisp.
Allow to cool and set slightly in the tin before removing them with a pointy palette knife; they remain quite delicate until fully cooled.