Un Oeuf is Enough

Whole. Yolk. White. Part.

Jan 29, 2023

My previous letter alluded to the fact that I am now whole heartedly comfortable with suggesting recipes that require you to divide eggs. That’s right, divide and weigh your eggs!

It also struck me that most of my decision making when it comes to choosing what to bake often comes down to the number of eggs the recipe calls for…

2 or less - add to basket, lets get cracking
3-4 - a pause to contemplate and weigh up the return
5+ - add to wishlist, save for celebrating egg lottery

As a follow on from that I thought I’d share some thoughts and musings on eggs and baking and eggs in baking. See indexed list below.

1. Egg size. Does it matter?
2. How to divide your eggs.
3. How to store and save leftover egg and what to use it for.
4. Ideas and inspiration…
i. for parts of the whole
ii. for yolks alone
iii. for only whites

One of the biggest tropes of recipe writing is for published recipes to specify large eggs ‘*eggs are large unless otherwise stated’, as if to say large eggs are superior to small, medium or size nonconforming eggs. They are not!
Despite this, eggs classified as large and very large are the most popular with consumers, but I encourage you to let go and embrace the often maligned ‘mixed size’ boxes of eggs.

In doing so you are choosing to value the otherwise devalued small eggs. Know that this simple decision contributes to creating a market for mixed sized eggs and most likely a better deal for the farmers.

From a welfare standpoint you might just be doing the hens a favour too. Evidence suggests that selectively breeding hens for large eggs has caused said hens to experience more stress and health issues through laying said large eggs. I admit I am not a scholar on the research into this, but try to imagine laying eggs day in day out and tell me you don’t believe it.
If you come across a recipe such as Branuary Muffins that calls for a portion of a whole egg, often written as a weight then the easiest way to ensure you are going to be adding all the necessary functioning parts of the egg is to crack the egg into a vessel set upon a scale, take a note of its weight and beat well to break up and combine both yolk and white. Weigh out the required amount for your recipe.
Portions of eggs can be stored in a clean jam jar or small airtight box in the fridge for up to 3 days. I admit some planning, as opposed to pure serendipity may be required to make the most of this potentially small fraction of egg lingering in the fridge, but by way of help see the recipe for small batch buttermilk scones below.

If you’re making custard or any other yolk rich delight you can save the whites in the freezer for up to 2 months, simply store in an airtight container, preferably just the right size to avoid freezer burn. Defrost in the fridge before using. Weigh and label before freezing so you know what you have.

When it comes to yolks I’m afraid they need a little more attention or they can become thick and gelatinous and not much use once defrosted. Before freezing, beat them well and add a pinch of sugar or pinch of salt per yolk, combining to a smooth consistency. Freeze in an airtight container and defrost in the fridge before using.

i. Parts of the whole -

Use to bind anything from fish cakes to veggie fritters, seal blind baked pastry or tart cases, add to more eggs for your morning scramble or use to egg wash scones or pastry.

ii. Yolk rich -

Custard and indeed the many iterations in the pastry cream hall of fame owe their exquisite texture to multiple yolks.

Ice Cream - controversial as it may be, egg yolk ice cream bases are not my most favourite when it comes to the cannon of ice cream formulas, but it is undeniable that this style has the richest mouth feel.

Cookies - a yolks only approach contributes fudgey tender centres.

Pâte Sucrée - for the most buttery, tender to the tooth pastry bolster with egg yolk and a splash or two of double cream never hurt either.

iii. Whites alone -

Financiers - a brilliant back pocket recipe, quick, easily mixed by hand and a canvas for flour and fruit exploration.
Macarons - the very French kind. You must be sure that once unshelled the whites don’t so much as catch a glance of the yolks for the best chance of voluminous meringue success.
Macaroons - not exclusively the coconut kind but the myriad of biscuits and cookies that make up a whole class of their own. Macaroon comes from the Italian maccherone which means paste and examples of this egg white only biscuit vary from almond ones flavoured with orange blossom to rich walnut and coffee versions.

I know that if you stick around we will at some point be talking more on all of the above. The baking world is vast and varied and navigating it with a freedom to explore becomes more fun and creative when you bake with sense and intuition.

This common baking sense and intuition is a smart way to make the most of your time and your ingredients and this weeks recipe reflects that. A mini batch of buttermilk scones that can be scaled up if need be, yet is succinct enough when only baking for one or two. It satisfies when you’re craving a fresh out the oven snack (simply add butter and jam), yet also lends itself well to dressing up shortcake style with fresh whipped cream and seasonal fruit, a perfect small batch dessert for two.

Mini Batch Buttermilk Scones

(Perfect for two)

120g flour - can use a combination of sifted and wholemeal and combination of softer and stronger flours

2 tsp baking powder

1/4 tsp cream of tartar

1 tbsp golden caster sugar

Good pinch sea salt

60g unsalted butter, cold, cubed

90ml buttermilk, cold
Demerara sugar and a portion of whole egg to glaze scones pre-bake*

Pre-heat oven to 200 degrees C (Fan)
Combine dry ingredients in food processor and mix to combine.
Add cubed butter, process until mix is fine and breadcrumb like.
Tip into separate mixing bowl, add buttermilk and toss with fork, bring together and turn out onto floured surface, form into a square folding dough on itself to form cohesive mass but do not overwork.
Cut into 4 portions or use a cutter if desired.
Brush tops with egg wash and sprinkle with Demerara sugar.
Bake for 8-12 minutes, rotating and checking to see if done. Sides should feel firm to touch but still yielding in a light and soft way.
Serve with butter and jam or clotted or whipped cream and jam.

* If you don’t have a portion of egg for egg wash then it really isn’t worth cracking a whole just to wash the scones, (unless of course you have another use for the remaining part) instead brush with buttermilk or double cream.

Bake Sense

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